In Gary Paul Nabhan’s book, Coming Home to Eat: The Pleasures and Politics of Local Foods, he recounts his own attempt to eat four out of five things from within a 400km (250 mile) radius of his home in Arizona for the period of one year. He dubbed this radius his food shed, and he was mostly successful in his quest although he made many compromises based more on politics than practicality. Nabhan describes in detail the politics of food including the ecological cost of food production. The book is a worthwhile read if one is interested in the geopolitics of food and I heartily recommend it.
On one level, I strongly support the spirit of Smith and MacKinnon’s position; I particularly empathize with their comment about flavorless fruit and vegetables sold out of season.
However, noble though their motives are, I cannot support the overall idea that we ought to only eat from our local food shed.
Their contention of “fossil fuels bad” begs the question of how they got to the strawberry fields to begin with. Did they drive or take public transit? Both methods require fossil fuels. I know this is a straw man argument, but I could not let it pass. Furthermore, immigrants to BC imported grain and sugar – if one does not want to eat sugar for political reasons, that’s one thing, but to exclude it simply due to an arbitrary map line strikes me as impractical. Ditto the flour and grains.
What about coffee? Chocolate? Vanilla? Olive oil? Not in BC. How about citrus fruits? In winter, lemons, limes, oranges, mandarins, grapefruit and others are as close as most of us in Vancouver will come to fresh seasonal fruit.
Another issue is cost. Food, good fresh local seasonal and well raised and bred, should be easily accessible to everyone. In North America, people seem to have a love affair with over processed and over packaged ready to eat food. In no small part this is the result of good marketing and cheap prices; eating a healthy diet requires a lot of attention to ingredient lists and access to a healthy food budget; therein lays the core of the problem. Smith and MacKinnon may have the means to pay $11/kg for local honey, but with the average family income in the $50K range, that’s a hard sell for most people.
I try to support local farmers as much as I can: I do most of my fruit and vegetable shopping at the farmer’s market between Victoria Day and Thanksgiving; I buy free range beef, pork, and lamb from farmers in bulk – the joy of the large freezer in the garage.
Ideally I’d buy nothing but adjectival (free-range organic shade grown pesticide free unmedicated additive free non-genetically modified) food products. Like most people however, I have a finite budget with which to feed my family; I also only have so much capacity for research to check all the sources of my food. I already spend what some people would consider an inordinate amount of time cooking and baking, preserving, canning, and freezing. There is a limit to what one person can do.
This is in no small part why I am a member of the Slow Food movement. I joined because I think food is undervalued – not in terms of price, although there are arguments to be made there – but in terms of health and wellbeing and our connection to the farmers who keep us fed. The big grocery chains now carry a majority of pre-packaged pre-prepared processed food; or, as a friend of mine quipped, the now carry food over ingredients.
What we really need is not to limit our food shed, but rather follow Slow Food’s position of eco-gastronomy – choosing and eating foods that are the product of sustainable agriculture, whether organic or conventional. We need not deprive ourselves of foods simply because they come from afar.